Monday, May 11, 2009

The Price of Earth-Friendly Clothing

Okay, it is TIME to discuss the high price of eco-clothing. In October 2008, I launched an online eco-fashion store, for several reasons. For many years I'd wanted to take a more active role in helping our planet and people. Sure, I recycled, brought bags to the store, bought green products, wrote to congress on a regular basis, and donated extensively to various eco, animal, and humanitarian causes. But, that never felt active enough. My job was too unpredictable to commit to weekend events, handing out leaflets or flyers, etc. And then--in 2006, I wore a bamboo t-shirt for the first time, loved it, and found it hard to purchase more online. In fact, at that time, I found a minimal online eco-clothing market, with scattered, unattractive websites. Ta-da! Problem solved. I would use my artistic skills to make a beautiful, appealing website to give shoppers a pleasant, unique experience. I would offer a diverse range of eco-clothing (sparse in 2006, though certainly not now). I would offer at least 100 graphics on eco-tees, for all the graphic lovers out there (and even today, it's hard to find a lot of designs on eco-tees, aside from my store). And finally--I would NOT charge the exorbitant prices that I was seeing online and at retail stores like Whole Foods Market. $30 for a t-shirt? This was wrong, this was taking advantage of the consumer, this was preventing people with less income from helping the planet! My store, I vowed, would have prices far below what I saw in the market in 2006.

My store finally launched in October 2008. Yet, ironically, in the growing recession, more than 35% of respondents to a survey on my site said in 2009 that my clothing prices are 'too high' (and I was offering a 35% off coupon!). Now, my store has lost money every month since its launch, while my prices are not much higher than what one pays at stores like American Eagle, and far less than stores like Lucky Brand Jeans or Abercrombie & Fitch. No, it's not Walmart pricing. But with frequent 20-25% off coupons, the added cost of shipping over a '$5 shipping every day' special, and merchant fees, I'm lucky to 'make' $5-10 on an item. That of course doesn't count my time to sample, order, sort, inspect, store, and then package and ship items, create and maintain the website, print the customized graphic t-shirts, etc!

How is this possible, you may wonder, when organic cotton jeans are selling for $62, or an organic shirt is selling for $32 (before 25% off coupon)? Well let me tell you, in some cases I even lose money with those coupons, and the reason is the wholesale cost of organic, fair trade clothing. If I pay $45 wholesale for a pair of green jeans, sell them for $47 with a 25% discount, pay the extra $3-4 to ship those heavy jeans, and then deduct merchant fees and my charitable donation on every sale--I actually lose money, never mind my time.

The disparity on other items is less drastic than the jeans, but not much. In the last 2 years, I've seen several popular eco-stores go out of business. There are still large eco-stores like Gaiam.com, which likely have deep enough roots in the eco-market to sustain themselves. But what about the smaller, new stores, trying to gain a foothold and offer something in their own eco-niche? How do they survive when consumers won't buy without 'lower prices'. The wholesale cost even before a retail increase is more than the price at a Walmart or Target!

So, you might point your finger at the earth-friendly clothing manufacturers. Is a $22 wholesale price too much for an organic blouse made in China under fair labor conditions? Like the consumer who says my eco-prices are too high, it's tempting to turn and say the same thing about the suppliers. If I was paying just $10 for that blouse, I could and would offer much lower prices in my store. But, consider... the wholesalers have entire teams of their own to pay. They design the clothing, insure that companies working with them overseas (when applicable) treat their people above fair labor standards and have proper organic certifications, organize all shipping and receipt of supplies, pay for models and catalog production, maintain their own websites, etc. They're also relatively small companies, so of course they don't get the same manufacturing discounts that massive retailers do. And let's not forget that this is organic farming, small bamboo farming, or soy fiber reclaiming--not the pesticide laden, conventional cotton machine entrenched and degrading farmland worldwide. (See this link on my site for more details: http://www.elementecowear.com/6-About_Products/About_Our_Products--Organic_Cotton.html ). Based on 'economies of scale', it's clearly more expensive for the eco-fashion manufacturer to purchase and use these earth-friendly materials. In fact, three of the five manufacturers I worked with shut down in 2008 and 2009. These were long-established companies, presumably well-managed. Like the eco-retailer, they too were presumably not making enough profit on a $22-30 wholesale top, or $45 wholesale jeans--they too needed to sustain enough volume. And suddenly, the volume just wasn't high enough.

So, the organic market does--simply by its smaller size, organic certifications, and fair payments to laborers--have a higher cost than your local Target (heaven forbid that someone support the denigration that is Walmart). That is, a cost in dollars. But what's the true cost of buying mass-produced, mainstream merchandise, in terms of the planet? In terms of its people? The hidden cost of cheap, conventional products is paid far from your own backyard--but do you really want your own saving of a few dollars to support the suffering of someone else, elsewhere on the planet? Or the destruction of their land--which, ultimately, affects all of us? Or, do you want to (literally) buy into a system of sustainability, a win-win where people are empowered and the planet preserved? It's all in your hands.

Lest anyone think that I just don't understand what it's like to be on a tight budget--let me note again that I've actually lost money every month since my business opened. I used to buy everything that I could as 'organic', and now I'm basically not buying at all. Even my food consumption is less organic than it used to be. So yes, I certainly understand. But if I was able to buy something, I'd still look to support the eco-option. Organic cotton and bamboo t-shirts cost about $24--is it really that different from the conventional cotton tee sold elsewhere? (Never mind the amazing, ultra-soft comfort of a bamboo t-shirt, compared to conventional cotton!) That difference is less than you might splurge on one lunch in the next few weeks. In exchange for this, you've supported small farmers caring for the earth, small businesses enhancing product diversity and keeping 'green' real, and of course supporting the planet itself which sustains us all. We all have the power to make some difference, and this is one of those ways that you can help yourself to something nice and help the world, too.

So that's my expose' on overblown eco-industry pricing. Little did I know it in 2006, but the gouging prices really weren't so completely gouging. And the reduced prices and specials being offered by eco-retailers now? In many cases, they're about as low as they can go without losing money! And in some cases, they are losing money. So please, support them!!

A side note is that enough people have spoken now with their consumer dollars to inspire massive 'green-washing' across multiple industries. If you can, I recommend investigating your product sources at least a little bit, and finding out where the real 'eco-good guys' are. When you buy a fully earth-friendly product, you're supporting a business with a conscience, following a model in which a company doesn't need to harm the earth or its humans to make a product.

By the way, everyone is welcome to visit my eco-store, www.ElementEcoWear.com , and to also compare prices on every item. Keywords are included in all product details, to help shoppers search and compare prices and selection elsewhere on the web.

Any and all comments about this article and the eco-industry are, of course, welcome.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Element EcoWear: Intro to Earth's Favorite Clothing

Well, I'm still new to this world of blogging... I've read and commented to many, but never made my own before! Soon, I hope to add some interesting and useful information about living in tandem with planet earth. But right now, I'll start with an introduction to my new earth-friendly web store, www.ElementEcoWear.com. If anyone has thoughts on this, the website, or eco-clothing in general, please comment!

Highlights are that it's a beautiful website with a wide range of organic cotton, bamboo, soy, and hemp apparel. Organic cotton and bamboo t-shirts, hoodies, & athletic pants can also be customized with more than 300 high-quality modern, vintage, and retro graphics. And of course (!), all suppliers are fair-trade and eco-friendly, and a percent of all sales are donated to environmental organizations.

Here are the details from a press release:

Element EcoWear's recently launched website offers a completely new eco-shopping experience for the public. The website is stunning, the clothing is ultra-comfortable and earth friendly, and the company donates a percent of every sale to charities, without charging the abnormally high prices that sometimes come with eco-clothing.

Element EcoWear is currently the only company to offer a range of 'green' t-shirts, hoodies, and athletic pants which can be customized with more than 300 high-quality vintage, retro, and modern graphics. A separate apparel line offers a selection of men's and women's shirts, jeans, sweaters, blouses, dresses, skirts, and more. Element EcoWear carries only high-quality, eco-conscious fabrics such as organic cotton, bamboo, soy, and hemp, in many classic and stylish designs.

Not sure why you should buy organic cotton? Wondering how bamboo and soy fibers are made into clothing? Curious to know what really makes these garments better than standard cotton and other fabrics? The answers might surprise you--and the feeling of the fabrics might surprise you even more. Bamboo and soy clothing is so luxuriously soft that it's often compared to cashmere. Bamboo fabrics also offer natural anti-bacterial properties, and both bamboo and soy are moisture-wicking and as durable as cotton. Add that to both plants' easy, renewable, and sustainable growth, and you'll wonder why you don't have more in your wardrobe already. For anyone still fond of cotton, Element EcoWear also offers organic and 'Earth Positive' cotton--a dramatic improvement over the standard cotton which is, globally, one of the most water and pesticide intensive crops farmed today.

For more information on cotton farming and the benefits of bamboo, soy, organic cotton, and hemp, visit the Element EcoWear website--where you may find yourself both informed and inspired. Every page of the website integrates striking art and photographs of the planet and its people. As Element EcoWear's founder, Dallas Fairbanks, explains, "The website is made to celebrate the world that we're trying to preserve--both the earth itself, and the diverse and unique spirit of humanity. Every individual has so much power... and in the U.S. there's a great deal of influence through purchases. Our products are not only great for the consumer, they're also great for the planet! Buying 'green' is an easy and beneficial way to bring about a world of change. Hopefully the website will remind people of this--and also make shopping more enjoyable!"

Element EcoWear ships globally. The Element EcoWear website is online at www.ElementEcoWear.com.